Friends, Family and Fun on Goree Island

This was by far our best weekend yet! On Saturday we went to the American ambassador's house, which is presently unoccupied because a new ambassador has yet to be assigned here, so the house is being used by the American embassy for various events. It was a potluck, which was so great because we got a taste of familiar food from home! The Senegalese don't really understand the concept of "potluck," so it was funny to them when I explained that the guests were bringing the food and it was not offered by the hosts.

At the end of the party a couple of break dancers who were hired showed up as we were leaving and we went back in. Noah ended up dancing with them and has decided that he wants to start taking classes with one of the guys.

On Saturday night I attempted to go out dancing to a salsa club downtown, but at 2:30 am when the owner kept telling us that it was still early and the people would be coming, we decided to head home. There was a great live band playing Senegalese style salsa, but not many folks with whom to dance. We'll try again next week! It's great having a roommate because I can leave Noah with someone he knows and likes and don't need a babysitter, plus places don't get started until 1 or 2 in the morning, so he is sound asleep by that time (the problem is I usually am, too!). I found out that there is a French guy here who teaches Cuban salsa and even Rueda, maybe I'll give it a try!

On Sunday we headed to Goree Island with our friend, Almamy. I found out about a capoeira (Brazilian martial arts done to singing and drumming) group on the island that practices Sunday afternoons, so we wanted to check it out for Noah. Also, it was my first time to the island. Noah had been there a few weeks earlier with his dad.

We took a taxi downtown to the port (about 1/2 hour from our house). We thought there may be extra ferries running because it was the day of the Dakar to Goree swim, but when we got there, we were early and had to wait an hour or so for the 4:00 boat.

Once we got on the boat, we saw one Senegalese with a bidimbou (a Brazilian instrument played for capoeira). Our friend asked if he was going to the class and he said that he was and he would show us where to go. The boat ride was great, but the sun was beating down hard!

It took about 20 minutes to get to the island. It is beautiful when you first see it. All of the building are painted in earth tones of reds and yellows.

As the boat was docking, our friend, who we were with, saw one of his spiritual leaders, from the Bifal sect of Islam, standing on the dock. He quickly got some coins to give him and asked me to take a picture of him with this man. As I took the picture, all of the people around started yelling at me to stop. I felt terrible that perhaps I had violated something sacred to these people. When Almamy (our friend) got up and came toward us, the people around me suddenly started apologizing (all of this is happening in French and Wolof) to me. They said that they thought I was just a tourist and did not realize that I was taking a picture for Almamy and now it was no problem at all! I felt much better!

From left-Tarang, 18, the youngest son of Fode's parents, Bifal, a drummer and dancer and our friend, Almamy

As we left the dock and started walking down towards the beach where everyone was swimming, we heard someone shouting, "Buba, Buba!" (Noah's middle name that he uses here-pronounced Booba) Noah followed the voice and spotted his father's youngest brother, Tarang, waving at him. Noah took off running!

We knew that three or four of Noah's uncles and many of his dad's friends live and perform on the island, but we didn't think it would be this easy to find them! They were so happy to see us (especially Noah) and they took us on a speed tour of the island, as we made our way to the top for the capoeira class.

A bunch of adorable kids teasing and playing with us as we passed.

This is the area where the artists stay and where Noah's dad lived when he was young. There are both visual artists (sculptors and painters) as well as musicians and dancers. The man in the picture has the same name as Noah's dad, Fode, and they played kora together on Goree when they were young boys.

There are many old remnants and reminders of the tumultuous history of Goree's past. It's other name is "The Door of No Return," because this is where many slaves passed through or were held on their way to the New World.

The exciting and hot moment of discovering capoeira in Africa!

Noah playing with the teacher. He studied with one Brazilian master who spent time on the island and then traveled to Brazil to refine his craft.

Another unexpected success of the day was the arrangement of kora lessons for Noah. His uncle, Tarang, will come to our house every Saturday and spend the weekend with us in order to give Noah kora lessons. His uncles gifted him with this kora to take home in preparation for his first lesson this coming Saturday. (Noah is also taking jazz piano lessons twice a week and African drumming lessons once a week at school)
This picture was taken after a great Senegalese meal of Yassa Poulet (grilled chicken and onion sauce) at a restaurant on the beach at sunset. We were waiting in line to get on the ferry home. The moon was almost full and shining on the water behind us.

The ferry ride home was packed! We had to stand the whole way. The capoeira group happened to be on the ferry as well and sang Brazilian songs the whole ride back. Of course, everyone joined in! Noah entertained the crowd on the top deck with his dancing and "kora playing."
When we arrived, the group made a rhoda (a circle) and started playing. Noah eagerly joined in, but this was no class, this was the real deal!!

Noah getting his nose checked and massaged after getting a slight kick. It's all fun and games...

He was back in the circle for more after no time and a powerful ending to an amazing day!